An article...

...I wrote in the style of vogue.co.uk about the recent collaboration of Lacoste with Catherine Malandrino.

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Francisco Lachowski

I think I'm in love... Introducing the definition of perfection, Brazilian model Francisco Lachowski.

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Nicole Murray

Last week I interviewed fashion designer Nicole Murray. As part of a Uni project I have written up a  profile about her and laid it out as a three page spread in the style of Wonderland magazine...

NICOLE MURRAY

Photographer JAMES DONOVAN Fashion Editor and Interview SACHA MUSGROVE

THE NEW DESIGNER TALKS US THROUGH

 HER FAST MOVING CAREER

Confidently poised with a soft presence, luxury womenswear designer Nicole Murray drinks a skinny, decaf cappuccino and tells Wonderland how she, “swears by Primark jeans.” Originally from Yorkshire and now based in London, at just 24 she has had a whirlwind start to her career over such a short period of time.

At 16, Murray discovered her interest in fashion. Influenced by her seamstress grandmother, she spent most of her time learning how to sew and make patterns, enjoying the practical side to fashion. Going on to complete a BA in fashion design at Nottingham Trent University in 2008, followed by a Masters degree at the London College of Fashion, she produced a graduate collection prompting luxury clothes store Harrods to fall at her feet. They were eager to sell her designs, she explains, “My mum was more excited than I was! It was amazing.”

Casually sat wearing a plain, navy, H&M t-shirt and jeans, she tells us about her aversion to bright colours and that she has, “a thing for navy blue. It’s the most luxurious colour.” Black on the other hand, “I tend to stay away from black. Everybody does black.” Previously interning with Roland Mouret, she became familiar with the bias cut method, now a frequent approach when making her own clothing. Murray explains, “I feel a lot freer just doing it on the stand.” This method is apparent in her A/W11 collection, which focuses on delicate eveningwear, using romantic, deep purples and golden yellows. “I make beautiful dresses for beautiful women, the person I design for is the person I aspire to be.” Murray often works with silk due to the luxury associated with it and she recently discovered a new material inspiration; a lilac-based, ivory-outlined, French lace, which she developed further throughout the collection.

As a designer that doesn’t like drawing, Murray is, “much more about the aesthetics than the process behind the design.” She is currently working on her forth collection for S/S12 which will be sold in Harrods along with her previous 3 collections and it will also be available online at watchthislabel.com.

Murray reads both Elle and Vogue religiously and surprisingly isn’t a fan of clothes shopping, “I’m so skint I don’t shop anywhere, I don’t like shopping, I’m not very good at it,” but when necessary she will head to the high street, “Topshop, Zara, French Connection,” but Primark for jeans, “they are the comfiest things!”

Motivated by the idea of one day having a, “five storey Georgian town house,” Murray, “never intended,” to have her own label, “it’s just kind of fallen that way.” Inspired by other designers such as, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz and Phoebe Philo for Chloe, because, “they always seem to get it right.” Galliano on the other hand, “he’s an idiot.” For a day Murray would love to step into the shoes of Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld, although in the unlikely situation that she might get stranded on a desert island she’d be, “a bit scared to be stuck with Lagerfeld, I don’t think he’d cope in his little white shirt.” Given the choice she’d rather take, “that fit man from The Hangover,” and her toothbrush.

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Kate Moss for Vogue Eyewear...

Kate Moss is the new face for the Vogue Eyewear ad campaign S/S11. The shoot took place in Syon Park, London. Ad photos snapped by Mario Testino. LOVE.

Behind the scenes at the shoot...

LOVE.

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i LOVE my new shoes.

KOSY Leopard Print Suede Slippers
£50 -Topshop.

♥♥♥

♥

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Riccardo Tisci, the new face behind Dior?

I'm sure by now you are all quite aware of John Galliano's recent, racist rant, which lost him the position as creative director at Christian Dior. Just three weeks later Galliano's career ruining conversation seems to be old news and more concerning to the haute couture consumers is who will take over as the new creative director at Dior? Rumours of various designers to take over have spread fast but it seems Riccardo Tisci is the one everyone is betting on. Appointed as the creative director at Givenchy in 2005, Tisci has produced some outstanding pieces, but could he continue the infamous beauty Galliano portrayed through Dior?

     It is obvious that Galliano and Tisci are not too similar with their design aesthetics. Galliano brought a soft, elegant and often sophisticated presence to each Dior collection and while Tisci is fantastic at creating garments that are so aesthetically pleasing, he often embraces a noticeably dark and mysterious, gothic style, quite dissimilar to that of Dior.

Dark & mysterious, Givenchy A/W11

Feminine & Elegant, Dior A/W11

Despite their different approach to design, both Galliano and Tisci are intellectually creative when it comes to producing something innovative and unique. Perhaps Dior is looking for an edgier designer to develop it's aesthetic. Or maybe Tisci will show that he is more than capable of adapting his creativity to suit a slightly different market. Either way I'm looking forward to seeing Dior's S/S12 collection in September - with or without Tisci.

With all of this speculation in mind, who would you like to be the new creative director at Dior? Riccardo Tisci? Alber Elbaz? Marc Jacobs? I hear even Katie Price is in the running with odds of 1000/1... Interesting.

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I want to go to Paris (by night)...

Inspirational photography by Brassai. 'Paris De Nuit' is a wonderful collection of images he photographed throughout the 1920's and early 1930's. I love.

Other inspirational, early Parisian photography...

Photographed by Marc Riboud.

Photographed by Louise Dahl Wolfe,
model wearing Dior.

I LOVE THIS. Photographed by Elliott Erwitt.

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Fashion Moment: Velvet Slippers...

Christian Louboutin studded, velvet slippers.

Embroidered velvet slippers were an elegant accessory for men throughout the seventeenth and eighteenth century. Think Prince Albert and the Victorian era. Each hand-made design was a sentimental gesture by young ladies, showing their men how well they could sew. Fashionable as eveningwear, the flat-soled shoe proved a more comfortable alternative to fancy heels. The cost of velvet signified wealth and prestige and the slipper was seen as an intimate garment as it was worn so delicately and more often in the bedroom.

     Clark Gable, ‘The King of Hollywood’ and an icon of the 1950’s brought the slippers new popularity; of course he would only wear them with socks and a shirt of the same colour. Not forgetting Winston Churchill and Noel Coward, both known for wearing the slipper during the same period.

    Influential shoe designer Emma Hope emerged in the 1980’s creating luxurious shoes of velvet in rich colours, which she described as ‘Regalia for feet.’ Following the tradition of the slippers’ monogrammed toe, her famous black velvet shoes were also embroidered, but with the ‘Black Goddess’ of cabaret, Josephine Baker. Similarly shaped to the traditional velvet slipper but with a heel, they were for women who liked to make a statement.

    The unisex footwear has been up and down the catwalk recently with Tom Ford and Dolce and Gabbana, both keeping the traditional appearance to the simple slipper. They have been modelled with heavy clothing, skinny jeans, shorts and dresses, suiting a range of attire. Crockett and Jones have taken a Christopher Kane-style slant by adding floral embroidery and décor to their reinvention of the traditional slipper.

   Pharell Williams and Kanye West's stylist Cassius Clay are among the influential faces wearing the slippers today. They have a more ‘rock n roll’ feel, designed with a skull and cross bones as opposed to the traditional crown or monogram seen before, never the less smart casual is the new fashion, taking comfort into consideration of course. 

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